I am on my 4th personal TUXEDO laptop, never had any issues. I actually started giving them to the devs at my company, no complaints so far.

They don’t offer my choice of OS, and I wouldn’t use a preinstalled OS anyway, so I can’t comment on that.

Yeah, wanted to comment exactly that. You could literally watch him become crazier with every upload. At first I did overlook the odd comment, but he eventually went full nutjob and I had to unsubscribe.

Yes, absolutely. Not all hinges are adjustable, unfortunately. In fact, I’d argue that most are not. Just have a look at the hinges at your place (doors, cabinets, toilet seat etc.), most will be very simple mechanisms with no inbuilt adjustment.

You can adjust the play mechanically, of course - that is, through application of a certain amount of force via deformation, which can be a destructive process if not done carefully.

There are hinges that expose an axial screw that allows for precise adjustment of hinge friction, but I have not seen those used for laptop display lids (nor did I personally encounter those in the small dimensions you would find on a laptop) . You’ll find examples of those at Misumi or McMaster - Carr.

If your goal is to increase the friction in your laptop’s display lid hinges, you might find that simply tightening all screws of and around the hinge often does the trick. Even though the main axial screw is not meant to be user accessible, it serves basically the same function and can tighten up the hinge. Tightening the screws used for mounting will ensure the lid doesn’t wobble. You will have to (partially) take your laptop apart for that, naturally.

If your hinge doesn’t have an axial screw at all and uses, let’s say a pin, you might have to employ another method, but that would really depend on the actual mechanism being used.

Absolutely, if there is enough plastic left, melting is one of the best options. That also enables mending plastic by melting in metal pins or strips via a cheap plastic welder for 10 bucks (success can be great, but it’s highly dependent on the geometry and how things broke).

Edit: no, as I said, that’s absolutely fine if there is a chunk of sturdy plastic to accept the insert. I just wanted to present another plastic repair technique for the sake of completeness, if somebody stumbles into this comment section.

This is correct and good advice. I’d like to add that it’s also an option to glue in a threaded metal insert in case a self - tapping plastic screw was used and the original thread is stripped.

by loosening the screws of the hinge.

Generally all correct, here is a resource with a lot of in-depth information and additional links:

https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-808-how-to-prolong-lithium-based-batteries

It’s not true that precision measurements are impossible with low value resistors, a lot of measurement equipment works exactly like that - it might just be more expensive than what the manufacturer is willing to budget for.

Tuxedo also offers products with an aluminum body, and while they do import the hardware from China, you get the local service and warranty guarantees any company in the EU must provide, so that’s fine by me.

Also, honest question: what do you think a unique laptop is, in particular when buying from a mass consumer brand like Lenovo? I really can’t figure out what that’s supposed to mean.

lspci will read the vendor and device id via PCI and use that to determine what the device is. You might want to make the output a bit more digestable / useful via lspci -s 03:00.0 -k -nn, but I’d assume the ids that match an 2070 will show up.

Could you please take the card out and provide us with a few pictures from different angles, maybe getting a good look at the actual chips?

I’d like to rule that out before chasing rabbits here.

Also, you could always run nvidia-settings, which will show information about an NVIDIA card using a different access method.

I’d still like to see the pictures of the card though ;)

Oh, that makes everything a lot easier. The majority of the relevant settings will be in your home folder then, i. e. in the ${HOME}./.config folder, while some might also be in ${HOME}/.local/share etc.

You probably want to backup the whole home folder anyway, so that would pickup most of your settings. In order to make that work on a different system, you would have to install all applications you were using on the tablet as well. Luckily, software installation in Linux is pretty easy, so you can export a list of installed applications from the Surface and then re-install them on your target system before migrating your home folder. The software list should become part of your backup. See e. g. https://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/82880/how-to-replicate-installed-package-selection-from-one-fedora-instance-to-another for an idea of how to perform this.

I have used this approach in the past and it will get you 95% there. There might be some global system settings that you’d like to also transfer to your new system, but you can add those as you discover you miss them on the target system.

In general, no, this won’t work. In your case, you’re lucky since at least the Surface Go is using an x86 CPU, so it’s not completely out of the question, but transferring the image as-is to a completely different device typically does not work without modification.

Simple example: your target device might not refer to existing hardware (let’s say a storage medium) in the same manner as your old device, so the existing references in your cloned image won’t work. There are other issues of course, e. g. missing drivers for different hardware present on the target device.

It’s possible to modify the image so it would boot, but given the Surface runs Windows, that’s going to be a chore. I’d consider this an interesting project if bored on a slow weekend, but I’d most likely just do a filesystem backup of relevant data and call it a day.

Honestly, that just seems like you’re treating dd as some kind of arcanum. dd works just fine and I’ve been doing 1:1, full system backups for decades with it, no issues. Honorary mention for ddrescue / dd_rescue for recovery options, i. e. re-trying bad sector reads etc.

In fact, when Clonezilla doesn’t know your filesystem, it will simply employ dd to copy the data sector by sector.

I’d argue that Clonezilla (due to its use of partclone) is actually a less complete form of backup, since it will only copy used blocks, you don’t really end up with a clone of your devices, just a copy of what partclone believes to be your data. Don’t get me wrong, that is fine in most use cases, but there are some cases where this doesn’t cut it, e. g. wanting to backup / restore a storage device from a PLC where the vendor had the glorious idea to store licensing data in unused sectors, or when you want to create a forensic disk image, might want it look into d3dd then, although it absolutely works using regular old dd as well, d3dd just adds some amenities.

All I want to say is: dd is an absolutely reliable tool and can be a one stop solution for device backups. Also, I have absolutely no quarrels with Clonezilla, if it fits what you’re trying to do and it works, great.

We’ll get along just fine. But I will remember the kid’s face if they’re cool.

You’ll be even more disappointed when you find out that “Aloe Vera Microfiber” is indeed coated polyester, with a few percent of Aloe Vera extract:

https://www.comatex.cz/en/fabrics/aloe-vera-microfiber-fabric/

http://www.azyhometextile.com/sale-polyester-peach-skin-aloe-vera-microfiber-fabrics-57485532.html

Honestl, I’m equally disappointed - I was keen to learn about a previously unknown fiber.

See, that’s what I wanted to say. I had no idea such a thing existed - you learn something new every day. From what I just read now it’s a synthetic gel core with a polyester case that has somehow been coated with Aloe Vera extract?

Is that what you are referring to? If so, I’d definitely like to try the gel core, but I’m not at all convinced as far as the case is concerned - the coating would wash out anyway, and I hate Polyester with a passion.

Taking out the gel core and replacing the case with cotton or linen is something that would I try though.

Really all of them? Camel fur? Natural latex? Lyocell? Sheep wool? Pinus cembra shreds? Horse hair? Kapok?

All I want to say is: there is a whole world of relatively unknown pillow stuffings available. This is mostly useful for people with very particular requirements or allergies.

I tried all the regular ones (cotton, different grains, down feathers) plus camel fur, latex and Kapok. Latex was great, durability was mediocre compared to the price though. Kapok became flat pretty fast.

I arrived at the same conclusions as you did: shredded foam. I’d go with natural latex, which has about the same properties and can be manufactured in an eco-friendly, sustainable fashion, but that led to me spending $120 on a pillow that didn’t last a third as long as a foam pillow for $22.

Edit: I’m also biased because I want my pillow to be washable. That helps with all kinds of allergies, plus the dirt you see coming out of the pillow… Jesus.

The best way would in fact be testing it with an electronic load that applies a precise and well known load to the battery and integrates capacity until a matching shutoff condition is reached.

However, the majority of people do not happen to have access to such an instrument, so I’d say your suggestion is a close approximation of the best way, which could be augmented by adding simple measurements, which can be done by most people at home for a reasonable, quantifiable judgment.

Just for the sake of completeness:

https://github.com/BurntSushi/ripgrep

https://github.com/ggreer/the_silver_searcher

It’s useful to be able to do this without additional tools (and there are more applications for the general command setup discussed in the video), but in practice, ease of use and performance often make a difference.

I’m aware of that, but let’s be honest here: social and political changes are not introduced, let alone solved, by technology.

You said it perfectly: this is about business needs. I’d like to argue to make the barrier for entry even higher (tie it to a form of citizen identity) and mandate the petition must be reviewed / acted upon once it has become significant - frameworks like this do exist already in several countries.

Everyone has multiple email addresses today, does that not fundamentally erode the validity of change.org as a platform for direct democracy then? I do believe this is the case, so I’d love if another website would at least stop violating already existing standards and force their erroneous interpretation of how email addresses work down our throats.